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5 Things To Try When Fish Aren't Biting
Summer is here. It's the season for fun in the sun.
One of those fun things to do is spend more time fishing. Whether
it's the entire family or just you and a buddy headed out to the
lake, the crucial factor in this fun fishing equation is catching
something.
While bass or walleye may garner angling headlines
in different regions, it's that eclectic collection of species
referred to as panfish that are the real bread and butter of everyday
anglers from all corners of the country.
When anglers say panfish, they usually mean the
species is pan-sized, good for eating and plentiful. While there's
not a definitive list, in most parts of the country the term panfish
covers all of the sunfish clan plus yellow perch and white bass.
From among the dozen or so sunfish species, the big three are
bluegills, which are found in every state; redear, which are mainly
in Southern regions; and pumpkinseed, which reside in Northern
areas.
Keep in mind that summer panfish will have changed
locations since spring, when they flooded the shallow-water spawning
sites. When searching for them in reservoirs and natural lakes,
consider the following methods that have proven to be effective
for countless panfishermen.
Make A Plan
Panfish behave in many respects like their larger game fish cousins.
Each species has preferred habitat and food requirements, although
some species' preferences may be more similar than those of other
species.
“Finding panfish requires a plan,” says
Tennessee guide Jim Duckworth. “It's no different than if
you were going bass fishing. You've got to have a plan that starts
before you ever reach the lake.”
In his seminars, Duckworth tells anglers the first
step to fishing an unfamiliar lake is to start with a good topographic
map.
“A pre-fishing map session is as important
for a successful panfish outing as it is for bass,” notes
Duckworth. “Based on the type of impoundment, I'll look
for key areas on a map to explore when on the water. For example,
I know on lowland-type reservoirs such as Kentucky Lake during
the summer that bluegills and shellcracker prefer some type of
wood cover in deep water. My best summertime spots for these species
are stump fields in about 20 feet of water, so I want a map that
will show me the cut-off stump fields.”
However, on highland reservoirs like Center Hill,
Duckworth knows that big bluegills will be on rock bluffs with
sporadic wood cover and as deep as 50 feet.
“For this type of reservoir, I look at the
contour lines that indicate bluff areas, especially where an old
creek channel swings close,” he says. “Other good
spots to check are the riprap face of a dam and bridge pilings.”
When his initial homework is done, Duckworth heads
to the lake to cruise the selected areas while studying his depthfinder.
If marks appear indicating fish, he will drop several buoys to
delineate the area. Only then does he begin fishing.
“The Humminbird 900 Color unit is absolutely
superb at showing bottom, cover, baitfish and fish in different
colors,” explains Duckworth. “This new color unit
has taken the guesswork out of trying to identify bottom structure
from fish lying close to the bottom or larger fish mixed in with
baitfish. Of course, it will not tell you whether the fish marks
are bluegill, shellcracker or even small bass. That is something
you have to find out by dropping a lure to them. But color units
are going to make fishing time for the average angler a lot more
productive.”
Keep It Simple
According to Duckworth, the simple approach is best when it comes
to bluegill and shellcracker.
“For depths to about 20 feet or so, I fish
crickets under a slip-bobber,” he says. “My rig consists
of a No. 2 Blood Red Tru-Turn bait hook, a large split shot, a
Thill slip-bobber and 4-pound Trilene XL line.”
If you have problems managing 4-pound monofilament
on an open-face spinning reel, Duckworth recommends a closed-face
model.
“I got turned onto the redesigned Johnson
Century this past year,” he notes. “They took care
of the major complaints with the reel, such as drag and pick-up
pin, and now it is absolutely awesome for 4-pound test. I match
this reel with an inexpensive fiberglass/graphite composite rod
for the perfect brim rod.”
To set the depth of the slip-cork, Duckworth refers
back to the depthfinder. He wants the cricket to hang about 1
foot above the tops of the stumps or brushpiles.
“I don't care much for commercial bobber
stops, so I take a piece of thin rubber band, tie it to the main
line with a couple of half hitches and trim the ends,” he
explains.
When it comes to targeting vertical-type structures
where depths will exceed 25 feet, Duckworth removes the float
and simply tight-lines the cricket.
“I position the boat parallel to the structure,
make a long cast, engage the reel and maintain a semi-tight line
as the bait sweeps slowly across the face of the structure,”
he says. “Bites are likely to occur on the fall, but if
the bait finally settles straight down without a fish picking
it up, then I begin an ultra-slow retrieve. I turn the reel handle
one revolution, pause for several seconds and turn it another
revolution.”
Yankee-Doodle Panfish
Farther north, multi-species guide Bob Hornstrom fishes for panfish
on both man-made impoundments and natural lakes. However, the
majority of natural lakes do not have accurate underwater maps
available.
“My summertime plan is to use my depthfinder
to locate structural elements similar to where I've caught panfish
in the past,” explains Hornstrom. “Even if I can't
actually identify fish marks but see what appears to be baitfish
activity, I'll fish it. I'm not saying that I don't have confidence
in electronics, but I've had experiences where the electronics
didn't show fish but I still caught them. I go with my gut feeling
and 40 years of experience.”
Hornstrom's experience also tells him where to
start looking on natural lakes.
“Most anglers head to the shallow weedbeds
for bluegills and pumpkinseed, even in summer,” Hornstrom
says. “Sure, they will encounter smaller-sized panfish there
because weedbeds are nursery water. But it's summer, and the respectable
panfish are deeper.”
Hornstrom typically starts at the outside edge of
weedbeds, usually around 12 feet, and works deeper, following
the flats out to a major drop-off and watching for rockpiles or
sunken debris that may attract a school. He might also head right
to a mid-lake hump that has a rocky outcropping.
“Whereas sunfish relate to some type of cover
or a ledge similar to their largemouth cousins, yellow perch will
likely be on an open flat, either smack on the bottom or hovering
just above it,” Hornstrom notes. “The best clue to
locating perch schools is finding the heaviest concentration of
baitfish schools. I'll search for panfish as deep as the thermocline,
but not deeper.”
The thermocline, which is a temperature barrier
that forms during summer, keeps deep water from mixing with water
nearer the surface. It is generally visible as a band of interference
on a depthfinder. Not only is water below the thermocline likely
too cold for warm-water panfish, but the dissolved oxygen down
there gradually disappears over time, making it uninhabitable
by fish until the fall turnover.
Hornstrom says the summer thermocline on natural
lakes in western Pennsylvania and western New York sets up somewhere
around 30 feet by midsummer. On reservoirs with minimal water-retention
rates, oxygen depletion in deeper water is not a concern, since
the water continually moves through the system.
Spoon Exciter
When exploring an area for panfish, Hornstrom fishes rather quickly,
looking for those first few bites to tell him something. During
an initial pass through an area, he uses a lure presentation that
allows him to keep moving.
“I'm a big fan of small jigging spoons
as practical fish finders in deep water, which to me is water
deeper than about 15 feet,” he explains. “Using a
1/4-ounce Kastmaster or Hopkins spoon, I'll draw reaction strikes
from crappie, white bass, yellow perch and sunfish. I may or may
not catch a bunch of fish with the spoon, but at least I get the
strikes from the most aggressive ones. So when a couple members
of the school swipe the spoon, I can switch to another presentation
once I know what's down there.”
To prepare a spoon for panfish, Hornstrom
first removes the stock hook and replaces it with a thinner-wire
round-bend size No. 6 treble. Then he adds a swivel to the split
ring on the front of the jigging spoon. He fishes the spoon with
a 6-foot fast-tip medium-light spinning rod and 6- or 8-pound
Original Clear Blue Stren.
“I use heavier line because I'm just as likely
to hook a smallmouth bass, walleye or even muskie,” Hornstrom
adds.
Hornstrom free-lines the spoon to the bottom, engages
the reel and takes up slack line so the tip of the rod is within
8 or 10 inches of the surface. Then he snaps the rod tip upward
12 to 18 inches and lowers it back to the starting position at
the same speed as the falling spoon. He continues snapping the
rod tip, pausing long enough to ensure the spoon settles back
to the bottom.
After popping the spoon off the bottom for some
distance, Hornstrom reels in 2 or 3 feet of line. He then snaps
the spoon and allows it to fall back to a tight-line position
above the bottom.
“Because panfish sometimes hover above the
bottom a couple of feet rather than hugging it, I alternate every
so often between the bottom-bumping pop and the off-the-bottom
pop,” he explains.
Should Hornstrom observe baitfish and suspected
panfish suspended at mid-depths, he reels the spoon in, drops
it back over the side, counts it down to that level and begins
snapping it.
Drifting The Flats
Both Duckworth and Hornstrom realize that some anglers look for
a more laid-back approach to finding and catching summer panfish.
“Some fishermen don't really know how to read
their depthfinder to find fish, largely because lower-end units
present problems in separating targets,” notes Duckworth.
“They use the depthfinder to tell depth changes and little
else. They need to have an approach that does not depend on intense
depthfinder use.”
Some anglers don't like constantly working a lure
to locate fish. “Maybe these are guys who go fishing simply
to get away and relax,” says Hornstrom. “Or maybe
they have several youngsters in the boat and don't want the kids
casting lures. But that doesn't mean they don't want to catch
some panfish to take home.”
Hornstrom's advice for the casual angler is to
stay away from clear-water lakes and impoundments, as well as
reservoirs with extremely steep sides.
“The easiest lakes to catch panfish in are
nutrient-rich flatland-type impoundments with somewhat dingy water,”
he says. “A good portion of the lake's panfish populations
will likely position on flats adjacent to secondary or primary
creek channels in water depths less than 25 feet. If there are
stumps or brushpiles on the flats, so much the better.”
To locate and catch fish, anglers simply need to
drift over the flats while trailing jigs or live-bait rigs. An
excellent drift is one that ends up criss-crossing the channel
several times, because panfish may suspend over the channel. While
the school may not be feeding, some of them will still grab a
small jig as it streaks by.
Hornstrom suggests a double-jig rig with two jigheads
of slightly different weight and two different-colored curly-tail
grubs. The combined weight of the jigs must be heavy enough to
keep them within 2 or 3 feet of the bottom during a drift.
If a breeze is pushing the boat over the flat too
quickly, put out a drift sock. If the lake is calm, use your electric
motor to slowly troll the flats.
“Some anglers will be content to make
repeated drifts all day long,” notes Hornstrom. “Others
will take note of the depth and location where fish are caught,
and anchor the boat for a more thorough casting or slip-bobber
presentation. As long as you are catching fish, there is no right
or wrong approach.”
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